dragster

The goals were agreed:

To restore the car, as close as we could to its original racing condition using '60s parts, tools and designs (& labor).
To ensure it is reliable enough to race in the 21st century, competing in bracket races.

Tempting as it is, to make something go faster with modern day technology, we decided strictly "old school" throughout and no matter what performance (2 secs +) we will make it reliable. So its going to be old 1/8" threaded axles; 48 pitch brass gears; no wheeliebars; no neos!

The car has been shipped to New Zealand and its in my "mad professor's" laboratory...

Phase I, get it rolling/running:

Rear end
The rear gears were binding and the rear wheels wound not rotate 360 degrees.
The drive is unusual by today's standards as the pinion sits on the arm shaft inside the motor housing.
Closer inspection revealed some solder lodged in the teeth of the brass gear was locking the rear end up as the mesh hit that position, so I cleared the teeth with a small jewelers file and achieved full rotation.
Next, the wheels were spaced, but there were no lock nuts and as the car power was applied, it tightened one rear wheel while releasing the other.

Front End
The front end had a 3/16" brass axle tube and the wheels were tightened against that, so didn't rotate.
I installed a pair of old 1/8" oilite bushings into either end of the axle tube. cleaned the axle threads, cleaned the axle with 2400 grit sandpaper in a drill and re-assembled with old spacers and lock nuts. The front axle/wheel package spins freely now, without slop in their bushings.

Rear End
Using a 4-40 die I cleaned the threads. I installed some old nylon spacers and steel lock nuts then tightened the rear wheels back on evenly.
I attached the power supply and fired it up. The motor worked cleanly, but drawing <1amp, with really tall gearing and big rears, its not going to set low ET, but she will go forever!

Planned this week:

Part 2

DV I have done the major bits now, Im trying to get it done and posted back for the Phil Eddies Memorial race. It will be touch & go but I like challenges The major chassis work began with a complete deconstruction. It showed the nice subframe, but given the project goals, it will be put back together using the original design. I didnt want to interfere with the old brass petina too much, 0 so I only scuffed up where the new solder joint was going to be made.
I squared the subframe plates and then aligned the lower chassis mainrails in my jig. I reinstalled the front axle tube and when I was happy with the chassis on every axis, I attached the upper main rails, then went around heating and strengthening each joint again. So the chassis is now restored.
So the chassis is now restored. The slicks are slowly responding to being soaked in Mura Tiger Juice I have found a better '60s Guide flag and got that done with "screw in" braids

To Do

- restore and reattach the drop arm
- install the guide and wire up
- Test it on the power supply
- Give one last treatment to the slicks
- Post it back to its homeland

Part 3

1. I made a new longer drop arm which should prove more reliable. I used '60s guide flag collars. Most old cars failed at the 'but joined' each end of the arm. after a while these failed. So I tapped some 3/32" brass rod and screwed into the collars and then soldered them tight. Hopefully it will go many bracket rounds like this slight variation of the original design. 2. As I had removed all the old square bracing, I replaced it with a single cross brace in the middle of the chassis.
3. I mounted and wired the "new" '60s guide flag and tested the motor. It runs well.
4. I added a rest so the front wheels are about 1/16" off the track, so it doesnt bite into glue which they didnt have in the '60s
Last details to do Paint and install the driver Glue the rear slicks to the hums say goodbye. I will be in the mail to you first thing Monday morning

Part 4

Overnight, I glued the tyres on to the hubs using Araldite clear 24hr epoxy (its good because you can apply it and do a clean up wityh White Spirits/Fuelite. After it cured, this morning I trued the Tyres on my Hudy lathe.
I thought the front end was a bit plain so I located some '60s fancy 3 prong knock off lock nuts and have put those on.
One side of the original body had no decoration, so a RAS Bracket500 decal fitted well. I painted the lexan driver (DVan) with an open face helmet and a leather jacket to commemorate the early '60s era.

I couldn resist, so I fired her up at 6V, it drew 0.2A so it wont be fast but it will be reliable. So there it is, a 1 week Restoration project.... Its in the mail on Monday morning, hopefully you will get it in time for the Phil Eddis Memorial Race. Im ready for the Now & Then "40 Years in the Making" project. Thanks so much for letting me be involved Mark